Nepal Travel & Trekking Essentials
Entry & Logistics
Do I need a visa before traveling to Nepal?
Most nationalities can get a visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport or land borders. Bring two passport-size photos and cash in US dollars or euros. A 15‑day visa costs around USD 30, 30 days is USD 50, 90 days is USD 125. Visa extension fees are $3/day (minimum 15 days) and a $5/day late fine applies if you overstay. A multi‑re‑entry option costs an additional $25.
What is the best time of year to visit Nepal?
September to November is peak — clear skies, warm days, crisp mountain views. March to May is also good, with blooming rhododendrons. June to September is monsoon: streets are quieter and the landscape intensely green, but trekking can be muddy. For street photography, monsoon light in old Kathmandu is actually beautiful — just carry a rain cover.
How much does a 10‑day or 2‑week trip typically cost?
It varies wildly. A budget trekker staying in tea houses, eating dal bhat, and using local buses might spend USD 25–35 per day. A mid‑range experience with a guide, private transport, and better lodges will be closer to USD 50–80 per day. For a comfortable 10‑day trip including a short trek, budget around USD 800–1,200. Carry cash — ATMs in remote areas are unreliable.
Can I use credit cards, or do I need cash?
Cash is king. In Kathmandu and Pokhara, larger hotels and some restaurants accept cards, but street food, taxis, and small shops are cash‑only. Bring enough rupees from exchange counters in the city. ATMs exist but have withdrawal limits and occasional network issues. Always have a small emergency stash of US dollars hidden away.
How do I get a local SIM card?
At Kathmandu airport, after clearing customs, you'll see Ncell and Nepal Telecom counters. You'll need a passport photo and a photocopy of your passport. A tourist SIM with data is cheap — around NPR 100–200 for the SIM, plus a top‑up for data. Nepal Telecom (NT) SIM cards work better in remote trekking areas because they have stronger coverage. Ncell is fine in cities.
Trekking & Mountains
Is a local guide mandatory for trekking now?
Yes, officially since April 2023. But on popular trails like Annapurna Base Camp, Poon Hill, and Mardi Himal, you'll still see many independent trekkers. The real risk of going without a guide is practical: in peak season, you might arrive at a tea house and find no room, ending up sleeping in a dining hall or a basic storeroom. In off‑season, tea houses may be closed altogether. A guide guarantees a bed, adjusts the pace for altitude, and offers peace of mind — especially if you're with family.
What permits do I need for trekking?
Almost every trekking area requires the TIMS card and a National Park or Conservation Area permit. For Annapurna (ACAP) and Manaslu (MCAP) regions, the permit costs NPR 3,000 — you can get it online at epermit.ntnc.org.np. Restricted area permits (like Upper Mustang) are expensive: $50 per day per person. For a full breakdown of permits and region‑specific fees, see my Nepal Photography & Location Guides.
How do I prevent altitude sickness?
Walk slowly, hydrate constantly, and never ascend more than 300–500 meters in sleeping altitude per day above 3,000m. Symptoms like headache and nausea are common; the only real treatment is descending. Carry Diamox after consulting a doctor, but it's not a magic pill. For more on staying safe, read my Safety While Travelling in Nepal article.
What are tea house facilities like?
Nowadays, most tea houses are comfortable. Rooms are twin beds with shared bathrooms. Hot showers are widely available (often NPR 200–300 if the place relies on solar power). The menu is surprisingly varied: dal bhat (unlimited refills), pasta, pizza, noodles, momos, fried rice, soups, and porridge. Charging devices is usually free in the dining area; some remote lodges may charge a small fee.
What's the packing list for high‑altitude trekking?
Layers, layers, layers. Temperatures can swing from 25°C in the sun to -10°C at night. For photographers: one 24–70mm equivalent lens, extra batteries (cold drains them fast), and a dry bag for electronics.
Can beginners do short, easy hikes?
Absolutely. Shivapuri National Park and Nagarjun Forest are easy half‑day hikes right from Kathmandu with minimal entry fees. The viewpoints of Nagarkot and Champadevi are perfect day escapes. Even a 2–3 day Ghorepani/Poon Hill trek is doable for most fitness levels.
Culture, Safety & Photography
Is Nepal safe for solo travelers and solo female travelers?
Generally, yes. Violent crime against tourists is rare. Petty theft happens in Thamel, so keep your belongings close. For women traveling alone, dress modestly in rural areas, avoid isolated streets after dark, and trust your instincts. I've guided many solo female trekkers who've had wonderful experiences. For a deeper look, read my article on safety while travelling in Nepal.
Is street photography allowed around markets and cremation sites?
Street photography is generally accepted here — people are often curious rather than hostile. In markets like Asan or Indra Chowk, you can photograph freely, but a smile goes a long way. At Pashupatinath and other cremation sites, be extremely discreet: telephoto lenses from a distance are okay, but never intrude on grieving families. I've written in depth about ethics and photographing people — please read it before you bring your camera.
What local dishes should I try besides dal bhat and momos?
Try gwaramari (a savory Newari fried dough ball, perfect with tea), sel roti (sweet ring‑shaped rice bread), chatamari (Newari rice crepe), thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup), and bara (lentil patties). In Kathmandu, the small eateries around Basantapur serve authentic Newari thali.
What are the top things to do in Kathmandu in 2‑3 days?
For a photographer: sunrise at Swayambhunath, morning walk through Asan Bazaar, afternoon in Patan Durbar Square, sunset at Boudhanath. Add Bhaktapur and the ancient temple of Changunarayan — they're less crowded and stunning in soft light. For detailed location guides, visit my Nepal Photography & Location Guides.
Is it safe to drink tap water?
No. Stick to bottled water, boiled water, or use a reliable water purifier. Most tea houses and cafes offer safe drinking water refills (sometimes for a small fee). Avoid ice in street stalls unless you're sure it's from treated water.
What immunizations do I need?
Standard travel vaccines: Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Tetanus, and COVID‑19. Depending on your itinerary, your doctor may recommend Hepatitis B, Japanese Encephalitis, or Rabies. Anti‑malarials are not usually needed for most trekking routes. Consult a travel clinic 4–6 weeks before departure.